Last week was the first international Tempranillo Day, invented by marketers but giving us an occasion to revisit the grape variety that puts Rioja and Ribera del Duero on the map.
Rioja is divided into three regions: Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Baja. Alta has the highest elevation and thus the shortest growing season. On the other hand, Baja is hot and its long growing season leads to wines that are high in alcohol and low in acidity. Most of the juice is used for blending.
The wines are classified by three categories that reflect oak aging. “Rioja” spends less than a year in oak. “Crianza” is wine aged one year in oak and at least an additional year in bottle. “Rioja Reserva” is three years in bottle, one of which is in oak. The “Rioja Gran Reserva” must spend two years in oak and three in bottle.
The generous use of American oak in Spanish wines has been a problem in the past, but producers have moved to Spanish and French oak to tame the woody flavors.
We have really enjoyed the wines from Muga, located in the Rioja Alta region. Family run, it makes wine in small batches with traditional methods. It is the only winery to employ coopers and makes its own vats. Eschewing American oak, Muga quality is from its barrel profile.Our picks
Muga Reserva 2007 ($30). Garnacha, mazuelo and graciano are blended with tempranillo to give this wine breadth and aromatics. Generous raspberry and black berry aromas with bright cherry and blackberry flavors and soft mouthfeel.
Muga Seleccion Especial 2005 ($46). The blend is the same as the reserva, but this version – made only in certain years – has more concentration and oak aging (28 months in barrel). Black cherries and spice dominate the palate.
Montecillo Reserva 2005 ($23). We like all the wines from this Rioja producer, but the reserva shows off generous, quaffable fruit and is cloaked in depth and concentration. Lots of bright black cherry and raspberry flavors with mocha notes and long finish.
Rioja Vega 2009 ($12). Generous young fruit, simple and medium bodied, with fresh dark berry flavors.
LAN Vina Lanciano Vina Reserva 2004 ($25). Tom visited this cooperative a couple of years ago and discovered a lot of interesting wines, including this reserve blend of tempranillo and mazuelo. Toasty and tobacco aromas with layered espresso and black cherry flavors. Very elegant and lush.
Marques de Caceras Red Rioja 2007 ($15). Very simple but well balanced with focsed rasberry and cherry notes, easy tanninsand hints of pepper and spice. Good value.
Artadi Vinas de Gain 2007 ($32). Made in a more modern style, this wine made entirely from tempranillo from old vines has an expressive aromas of smoke, mineral and blueberry. Concentrated and balanced.
Spanish wines
Altovinum Evodia 2010 ($10). Made entirely from garnacha this lush wine is a knock-out. Lots of black cherry and raspberry flavors with intriguing aromas and nice mineral notes.
Tarima Monastrell ($10). This is an incredible buy from the Jumilla region of Spain. Loaded with ripe blueberry and dark berry fruit, it’s simple but delicious. Hints of licorice and chocolate.
Terras Gauda O Rosal Rias Baixas 2009 ($24). This wonderful Spanish white wine with a tongue twisting name illustrates why albarino is quickly gaining recognition in the U.S. Lovely apple cider color with a hint of green. It is 70 percent albarino, 20 percent loureira, and 10 percent caino blanco. This wine exhibits a lively bright peach floral nose with a hint of citrus. Peach and mineral flavors with bright acidity. A wonderful expression of the albarino grape.
Bodegas Castillo de Monjardin Chardonnay 2009 ($14). A good value from Spain, this wonderfully lush chardonnay has a lot of fruit forward, tropical fruit flavors. Very enjoyable.
Some of the wines recommended in our column may have been provided for review by their producers. The authors can be reached at tmarquardt@capitalgazette.com.
Article source: http://www.hometownannapolis.com/cgi-bin/read/2011/09_07-41/FNW
