So will we one day laugh at French roses, prosecco or Argentina malbecs – today’s wines with growing popularities? Will the hedonistic Australian shirazes or the fruit bombs of Bordeaux be classified passe?
Our tastes in wine shift as much as yours. But we are united in having the spirit of adventure to try something new. We’re always amazed at the willingness of wine consumers to break away from their comfort zones.
Such was the case when we recently poured a number of French wines made with the picpoul grape variety, also known in France as folle blanche. Grown in the Languedoc outside the village of Pinet, this ancient grape nearly faded from existence when the phylloxera scourge decimated French vineyards in the early 20th century. But a resurgence of popularity has given new juice to this delightful grape.
There are more than 8,000 grape varieties harvested in the world, but most wine enthusiasts couldn’t name 25 of them. Have you tried charbono, tannat, or ugni blanc? They’re among the common grapes.
With that, we’d like to introduce you to three grape varieties whose wines you may not have tried. They are picpoul, muscato and grechetto.
Picpoul
The bone-dry picpoul has been compared to muscadet and sauvignon blanc, but it’s truly unique. It’s name means “lip-stinger” for the big acidity that you find in a muscadet from Loire. Its aromas are subtle and its citrus, apple flavors are compelling. Surprisingly, it’s more complex than you would expect. It is not, however, anything close to chardonnay.
A subappellation of the Coteaux du Languedoc, Picpoul de Pinet is one of the named crus that produces the best picpoul wines. The grape is also grown in the Rhone Valley where it is used primarily as a blending grape.
It is a great wine to serve as a summer aperitif and it will do well with seafood, particularly scallops and shrimp. Picpoul has some nice mineral notes too.
Cave de Pomerols Picpoul de Pinet 2010 ($10). Lime and grapefruit aromas abound in this simple but exquisite picpoul. Good acidity and bone dry.
Terre de Neptune Picpoul de Pinet 2010 ($10). Excellent length and varietal grapefruit and citrus notes with the classic acidity picpoul is known for. We served this at a party and guests were flocking to the store the next day to stock up. At this price, how can you go wrong?
Grechetto
This Italian grape variety had fallen off the horizon for us until we recently paid a visit to the Italian Market. Owner Raymond Lubrano insisted that Tom buy the Antonelli Colli Martani Grechetto ($16). Holy cow, what a wine. This could be our favorite white wine discovery of the year. It was richly textured and full-bodied with tantalizing peach and mineral notes.
A grape variety with Greek origins, grechetto has been used primarily as a blending grape with chardonnay, malvasia and trebbiano. However, it is a very fragrant grape that can be vinified by itself by good producers. Antonelli is one of the most respected producers in Umbria, where grechetto is most commonly found.
We haven’t seen much grechetto on the local market, other than the exquisite Antonelli, but we know that another good producer is Arnaldo Caprai.
Moscato
Moscato is making a very surprising comeback. Quite different from picpoul, muscato is vinified sweet and sells for well under $10 a bottle. Sales have tripled in the last three years and the new audience is primarily among the millenials. Gallo is one of the biggest producers – its Barefoot brand joins Gallo in controling 43 percent of the market.
Although it represents only 2 percent of wine sales, its number doubled in 2010. Experts suggest that moscato is replacing white zinfandel as the wine for those with a sweet palate. Sutter Home doubled its sales, and sales at Woodbridge are tenfold over the previous year.
Moscato can be a sweet fortified dessert wine or it can be an effervescent aperitif. In both cases, it is very fruity, always sweet and packed with peach, citrus and honey flavors. Often it is effervescent, like asti spumante, and sometimes it is a sweet dessert wine.
We can’t say that we personally like these wines, but we can’t deny their growing popularity among first-time wine drinkers. If you prefer something sweet, this may be your ticket.
Umberto Fiore Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2010 ($13). With just a bit of effervescence, this Piemont-area wine is perfumy with sweet fruit flavors. A good match to fresh berries topped with cream.
Robert Mondavi Moscato d’Oro 2010 ($20). Sweet but well balanced with peach flavors and a flowery bouquet.
Barefoot Moscato Spumante ($11). This bubbly sweetens the palate with apricot and peach flavors.
White Knight California Moscato 2010 ($13). From The Other Guys, this is a blend of muscat de alexandria (50 percent) muscat canelli, pinot grigio and orange muscat. It doesn’t make a lot of sense to us, but the wine has a quaffability factor for sweet palates.
Some of the wines recommended in our column may have been provided for review by their producers. The authors can be reached at tmarquardt@capitalgazette.com.
Article source: http://www.hometownannapolis.com/cgi-bin/read/2011/09_21-34/FNW